SGUARDO FETISH - Torna "Twin Peaks" e gli stilisti s'affollano per ricucire il trendy-look della serie di Lynch dal passato al 2016
Articolo di
Eric Wilson per "
In Style"
The news this week that
Twin Peaks, the cult television phenomenon from 25 years ago, will be returning with a nine-episode series on Showtime
in 2016, got me thinking about its long and mysterious legacy,
especially as it relates to fashion. When it first aired, the show
happened to capture the essence of American style as it transitioned
from preppy mall clothes and twinsets of the 1980s to more regional
grunge and disaffected posing of the Pacific Northwest of the 1990s,
just as major changes in technology and communication were beginning to
take shape.
For designers,
Twin Peaks represented a lost moment. I would
not call it a moment of innocence, given the bizarre and sometimes
terrifying subject matter of the series, but one before things became so
complicated by business demands, information overload and the conquest
of instantaneity over suspense. Besides,
David Lynch’s vision for the
show was so visually arresting that
it remains a fashion touchstone, one
that has made countless reappearances in collections as sometimes
shockingly literal inspiration.
In 2005, more than a decade after the show’s original two-season run and
a subsequent movie,
Veronique Branquinho, now one of the major stars of
Belgian fashion, made one of her first presentations at the
Pitti
Immagine fashion fair in Florence, Italy, in a set that was inspired by
the creepy “red room” from the show. The
men’s wear collection, shown on everyday men rather than models, nodded
to lumberjacks and hunters, along with duffels and brown and burgundy
tuxedos that recreated looks and characters from the memorable dream
sequences, a show dug up from the archives this week by the deep memory of the British journalist
Charlie Porter.
“I thought the atmosphere in
Twin Peaks was the right mood to have in the performance,” Branquinho said at the time in a video interview. “It’s the perfect match for what I wanted to do.”
I’ve seen characters from
Twin Peaks on so many designer mood
boards and in magazine editorials over the years that it’s hard to
remember them all.
Camilla Staerk, a Danish designer who came to New
York in 2006, showed a first collection here that was inspired by Laura
Palmer and Donna Hayward. Odilon, a
collection designed by
Stacey Clark, had a hit in 2012 with sweaters
that carried a message from the show: “The owls are not what they seem” (
pictured, above left). And the
Kenzo
designers, in their fall collection this year, collaborated with David
Lynch on their show, prompting numerous references to his work, such as
Twin Peaks ponytails on the models, created by the hairstylist
Anthony Turner.
There have also been more literal translations of fashion from the
series, particularly in Europe, where the Spanish label TitisClothing
that dedicated its fall collection
to the quirkier aspects of the show (including a model carrying a log,
after the “log lady”), and, naturally, in Japan, where the label
Black
Weirdos is selling
a “Killer Bob” parka. You can have a field day looking over the references at the fan site
welcometotwinpeaks.com. And as they say in Twin Peaks, it is happening again.
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